Lemme tell ya, this one was a BEAR.
WIG - Wigisfashion Lacefront (LF095)
I love how thick this wig is, and the color is perfect. My only complaint is that I still don't know how to wear lacefronts so the lace doesn't always stick down correctly. 4/5
COAT
Made using Mccall's M6819. Now, before you go out and buy this pattern, here's some things to consider. You will have to modify this pattern HEAVILY if you want this costume to look anything close to accurate. The collar, sleeves, belt, peplums, buttcape, and the back of the coat are essentially all wrong. I am not kidding.
-Collar: If you look up the pattern, you will see floppy collar that is way too tall. I ended up reshaping the ends of the collar and cutting them down, as well as hand-sewing two pieces of floral wire to the front in order to give the collar the right shape
-Main Jacket: The fabric is screen accurate Robert Allen Diamond Tuft upholstery fabric in Natural. I was SO LUCKY and found a remnant of it for $20 online, which was the main way i was able to make the costume in the first place. I hand-sewed individual Czech glass beads to each one of the diamond patterns. The M6819 coat pattern is mostly correct for this area, but I had to redraft the side-front piece in order to fix the gaping armhole (I don't know if was a fit problem or just an issue with the pattern itself). Unfortunately, the Princess Seams of the jacket are wrong, and if you look at references you'll see that the wizards on the OUaT costuming staff managed to only do a small princess seam at the bottom of the jack stopping before the bust and another small one from the armpit to the bust, assumedly to keep the pattern of the fabric from overlapping strangely. I had to make do with what I had and did not get the chance to fix this, but if you're a pattern-altering wizard and can figure it out, I would love to know your secret. The front closes with 5 hooks, placed right near the overlap of the jacket.
-Sleeves: So... M6819 has the sleeves for this done in a STUPID way. Instead of having the pieces segmented into arm tubes, it's all one piece. To their credit, the puff at the middle of the sleeve is done in a very smart way, but the sleeve itself is far too loose, and on top of this, instead of having another puff attached at the shoulder seam, the just added a stupid little piece of fabric that looks faintly like a poof that goes on top of the sleeve. For all that is good and holy, do not do this. I took the patterns for the various sleeve pieces and altered them to be arm tibes, taking them in and fixing the upper sleeve so it was just off the shoulder. Once these tubes were all sewn together and beaded, I added white grommets where they were shown in references (shoulders, top of upper sleeves, bottom of upper sleeves, top of lower sleeves) and looped white cording throughout, tying them off with silver beads).
-Peplums- I dunno who drew up the patterns for these, but they're the worst. Every single one of these separate peplums had to be altered in shape (and my front peplums aren't quite right either but oh well). I just stared at references and drew up new patterns for these, then added beads. After all this I just eyeballed their placement and sewed them to the main jacket. My suggestion is to draft these according to your body type, as they will be in different spots depending on how the jacket lays on you.
-Buttcape: This will be altered once I have to chance to do the buttcapes the way I want them. All you need to know is SURPRISE the pattern is mega wrong and you will have to fix it.
EVERYTHING HAS BIAS TAPE ON IT. YOU MUST BECOME ONE WITH YOUR BIAS TAPE.
UNDERSHIRT
M6819 did a fine job with this, thankfully. Just make sure to use the long-sleeved shirt so the poofy sleeves peek out. I used a nice cream peachskin that has frenchseams and is super soft.
BELT
My belt needs some work. The pattern has the back closing with lacing, but.. nope. The pattern also creates too thin of a belt, so I just used a single piece of white fabric instead of sewing two together and flipping the seam inside. I then added 2 layers of silver tulle with another layer of silver netting underneath and adhered it all together with Heat and Bond. From here, I hand sewed 2 sets of silver decorations (not quite screen accurate but we do what we can). I still have to add a belt buckle and extend the belt in the back a bit as well.
PANTS
Did not make these, alas. Bought from Forever21. Still cannot decide if they're the right color.
BOOTS
Steve Madden Canyon Boots in Cognac
I still have a lot to fix, as I'd love to go back and put leather bias tape on everything, but it just depends on if I can even find any. I also plan on redoing the buttcape and its subsequent lining (and possibly the undershirt... Everything except the main jacket could get a remake ;-;). Hope that helps!